Building Your Own SUPER Computer Finally! Pt. 2/2

Building Your Own Super Computer USING Parts Purchased in Part 1/2!

Hi everyone, sorry again for being absent Thursday really wanted to finish this post and kept thinking of all my readers depending on my incredibly well thought out instructions to build their super computers!!! But alas! here I am and here is the second addition to: How to Build Your Own Super Computer.

Phase IV: Motherboard and Microprocessor

CAUTION: Do not shock your computer parts when installing them! When installing these parts into your computer it is imperative that you ground yourself while working. You can buy an anti-static bracelet in case you want to be doubly sure you don’t ruin your hard bought items.

So now that we have all computer parts purchased, we can finally start assembling this beast you might call a machine. The first phase involved in assembly are the motherboard, ram and microprocessor components. Unwrap the motherboard and microprocessor. Now, find the microprocessor socket on the mother motherboard and align the marked corner of the chip to the marked corner of the socket on the motherboard, and your done with the microprocessor!

Next is the heat sink installation. The heat sink is the medium that prevents your CPU from overheating when in use. Basically it is the unit responsible from transferring the heat your CPU generates as energy into liquid form using a type of coolant and thermal grease to maximize this effect. Evey heat sink is different but they all come with instructions that are usually easy to follow.

Lastly, we are going to install RAM. When installing RAM I have always been told to make sure you install each stick starting with the closest slot to the CPU and moving upwards. For this exercise just make sure the stick is correctly installed and you hear it click into place starting with the slot labeled 1. Your RAM slots should be numbered. Now we go to the case!

Phase V: Case Assembly

So now we actually have assembled one of the most important parts to your computer. The motherboard/CPU unit! You must feel so proud of yourself, well put the pause button on your congratulatory moment because we aren’t done.

Here is what the heatsink mounted above the CPU mounted onto the motherboard looks like.

Take the faceplate included with your motherboard purchase and click it into place in the corresponding holes on the case, Next take the spacers and screws also included with your mobo and place them into the corresponding holes on the case. First, place in the spacers, then align the mobo with the faceplate you clicked in a step ago and then screw in the screws through the spacers into the mobo.

SIDENOTE: Make sure when installing your mobo you DO NOT screw in the motherboard too tightly butallow it to be “nestled” into the screws. Also ensure that NONE of the mobo cables touch (even lightly) your case it can ruin the whole board. Lastly DO NOT drop the screws on mobo!!! You can damage the wiring of the mobo and ruin it.

Phase VI: Power Supply

I understand the PSU is installed inside the case along with the mobo and RAM but it is important enough to me to consider it a separate step (HEART you PSU!). Anyways back to work. So there are two sides to a Power Supply Unit. There is the back (fan side) and the front (wire side). In case you have never seen where a PSU should be located look for a cut square/rectangular cut out area on the top left/right side of the case.

Next situate your PSU on its brackets keeping it in place while you screw it in using screws that came with the unit.The fan side should be facing outside the case while the wire side facing inside the case.After installing it correctly, attach the power leads from the PSU to the correct areas on the mobo. There is a big one and a small one. After connecting these leads the rest of the wires should be color coded to match their correct ports. When in doubt look at the manual that undoubtedly came with your PSU.  That is it for your PSU we are almost done!

Phase VII: HDD Installation

Now we are ready to install your HDD (Hard Drive Disk). When you purchased your computer case it also should have come with brackets for your HDD. These brackets should make for a snug fit with your HDD and the screws that also came with the computer case should be used to screw the HDD into these brackets.

HDD installation into HDD brackets.

After screwing in the HDD into the brackets place the brackets back into its slot inside your case and connect the HDD into your PSU through the correct connector and connect the other HDD cables to the mobo. The red striped cable is “pin 1”. Get the marked “pin 1” side of the red striped cable and find the “pin 1” port on the motherboard and click it in. Your HDD is now correctly installed.

Phase VIII: (LAST PHASE!) Installing the CD-Rom Drive

We are finally almost done! I’m excited.  So now we are going to install your CD-Rom/DVD/Blue Ray drives correctly and make sure they don’t fall apart when you start using them. Locate the faceplate or rectangular slot located on the front of your computer case.

Now either connect it to your PSU (any available connector will work) or screw it into place with the face of your drive facing outside within the opening. Then connect the OTHER red striped cable that should have come with your CD-Rom and connect the red stripe marked side of the cable to your mobo.

Lastly! connect the audio cable that also came with your mobo and ensure that it securely connects to the indicated audio port on your motherboard and you are DONE!

Congratulations! on completing your first working computer! I hope it does work if in the off-chance it does not work please go here. It seemed to be a great thread post regarding issues someone had with a computer they just built so it definitely might help you.

Enjoy your AWEsome new computer you tech savvy genius you!

EZPC Recycling, Inc.
CEO, Miguel Bautista
Don't forget us when you throw away your used computer parts!

The Reasoning Behind Hurricane Categories.

Today I really wanted to explore the hurricane category classification system and how it became the warning system that we use today. I really feel its interesting to see how the current scale describes and sizes up these hurricanes especially with Hurricane Irene still attacking the East Coast. Hurricanes have always been forces of destruction terrorizing coastal areas such as the Caribbean and parts of the coastal U.S. But it wasn’t until two scientists, Herb Saffir and Robert Simpson, decided that the old building codes structural engineers were using for determining the resistance of structures to wind related factors was out of date. Shockingly these building codes were unchanged since 1926! Basically costing the United States a lot of money just for not upgrading the codes. So they teamed up and designed this super effective and accurate category system that sums up hurricanes accordingly. Click here for info on the classification system.

The 5 Category System

  • Category One: Very dangerous winds will produce some damage. This category includes winds that are anywhere from 74 to 95 m.p.h.  Category one hurricanes have the ability to kill and maim animals and/or people.Not only can they kill your favorite pet, these hurricanes can completely destroy your mobile home or any building built before 1994!. Even swimming pools might suffer heavy casualties as this heavy hitting hurricane rips across your hometown.
Category one hurricane. Hurricane Francis doesn't look scary.
  • Category Two: Extremely dangerous winds will cause extensive damage. So what’s worse than a category one hurricane? A category two. These bad boys traverse the coast at about 96-110 m.p.h.! That is a semi slow Lamborghini Gallardo! These hurricanes tend to kill slightly more people and animals but it probably isn’t as bad as a category three. Mobile homes are also much more likely to be uprooted and destroyed by these barbaric hurricanes (Can there really be civilized ones?) but post-1994 constructed homes can also be severely damaged in these disasters. Surprisingly during category two hurricanes is when filtration systems for viable water sources begin failing. Essentially in a category two much more things are being thrown around. 
This pic was taken 11 hours ago of Hurricane Irene, a category 2 hurricane. Click here to see more.
  • Category Three: Devastating damage will occur. This is where hurricanes really start making stronger negative impacts on livelihoods. With these hurricanes the average wind speed will be 111-130 m.p.h. That is mind boggling. Many people and animals will now be at high risk of death just from being within the hurricane. Newer homes might not be completely decimated but most likely will have roof and wall collapses. Even well constructed homes are going to suffer extensive destruction if they are still standing. Both electricity and water sources will be unusable for a number of weeks after this deadly type of hurricane passes.
This was taken from Hurricane Wilma. A category 3 hurricane. Notice the accuracy of the category descriptions.
  • Category Four: Catastrophic damage will occur. Speeds at this level of hurricane ferocity will hit averages of 131-155 m.p.h. These forces of nature will basically do what category threes do except on a category four scale. In other words apartment buildings will most likely have their rooftops ripped off and weeks after this hurricane passes broken glass and shattered windows will still pose threats to passerby and survivors of this calamity. Additionally, many trees are going to be completely uprooted and block off sections of the residential areas they use to line with their beauty along with destroyed telephone poles. Most of the affected area will be uninhabitable for months!!!
Hurricane Dean a category 4 hurricane. Notice the sinking boat towards the farther end of the picture.
  • Category Five: Catastrophic damage will occur. Basically category four and five hurricanes are very similar in their potential destructive power with the only difference being category fives are a bit more destructive since the rate of speed for these hurricanes need to be at an average higher than 155 m.p.h. This hurricane is what nightmares are made of. Regardless of being in your house or in a skyscraper, your chances of death are always high. This is because of the sheer force of moving debris and the speed of the winds themselves. Pretty much every mobile or bolted down building will be annihilated with the exception of a few apartment buildings. The area would be inhospitable for months.
Utter devastation. Category 5 hurricane, Hurricane Katrina.

I hope this descriptive listing of hurricane warnings has enlightened you and opened your eyes to just how devastating a hurricane can really be.  I really never knew how the government scaled hurricanes and on what basis they determined the category levels but after researching them for this post they have my respect that’s for sure. Hopefully Hurricane Irene starts dying down so we don’t see anything close to a category 3-5. Currently I believe it is a Category 2. For more information click here.

Have a GREAT Day!

EZPC Recycling, Inc.
CEO, Miguel Bautista
We recycle all your electronic needs.
Make the world a better place. Recycle with us today!



How Influential are Humans on Earth?

Ya..contrary to popular belief this is what real animals look like.

EZPC Recycle’s Angle:

This question really bothered me after watching a History Channel documentary on plastic pollution and how drastic of a negative impact it has been having because of marine life thinking it’s food. I am not a “tree hugger”. However ever since getting a dog (Akita/German Shepard Mix; very smart/fun puppy) I have inexplicably gotten more attached to the natural environment. The U.S. Census Bureau has a population clock stating the U.S. & World Population at this very moment. Right now, 2:23 p.m. Pacific Standard Time, the world population is at 6,957,210,733 people. Click here to see how many more babies are born when you start reading this post!

But back to the issue. 83% of the Earth. That’s an unbelievable amount of land. This statistic is from an article on National Geographic’s website, you can see it here. It is very old, 2002, which makes this even more shocking. The article goes on to give more statistics just to wrap your head around the 83%: In Ghana, 98% of discrepancies in extinction numbers over a 30 year period were attributed to the national park’s size and the people affecting it’s ecosystem within 30 miles of it. Ghana is nowhere near as advanced as more privileged countries: the E.U. or the U.S. Yet this footprint shows a reach extended by the technology advancing our civilization from the more advanced countries on Earth. This reach is both direct and indirect. Obviously pollution is an indirect factor and hunting down rare exotic animals is a direct one. But being 83% influential can be a positive thing too. Why don’t we move our weight around to dominate this planet in a good way? (possibly increasing our dominion for a little while longer in the process) It would not hurt to prevent one extra piece of plastic from going into the public drainage system and ending up choking “Nemo” (clown fish) to death because he thought it was delicious food. It’s just something to think about. Hope you don’t feel too bad after all we are only human.

Tell Me how to go from 83%- to 83%+. Share some ideas.

EZPC Recycling, Inc.
CEO, Miguel Bautista
We recycle all your electronic needs.
Be 83%+ Today.

How Do I?: Changing a Tire….by Using the Force.

So I was thinking of different ideas for posts today and a small light bulb (very small light bulb, like microscopic) suddenly appeared above my head turned on and then short circuited and cracked the side of the bulb. Most likely because of my cerebral potential XD. Anywho, it came to me that it might help some of my readers that are just “2 cool 4 school” to elaborate on changing a tire. I know it sounds somewhat mundane but to be honest I’ve never replaced any of my tires let alone cared to figure it out. So hopefully with this post I will help enlighten us to be a little more self reliant. Let’s get greasy.

The Art of Tire-Swapping

Yes, Yoda is using the Force to change a tire. Duh.
What You Will Need:
  1. A flat tire.
  2. Time.
  3. Spare tire.
  4. Tire Jack.
  5. A safe workspace.
  6. The Force (i.e. willpower).

step ONE: So before we can switch the tires we need to make sure nobody will run you over. Therefore, now would be the best time to situate yourself in a stable work environment such as the side of the road, preferably far enough away from oncoming traffic and somewhere flat and solid.

step DUO: When situating yourself into your safe workspace ensure the car stays where you park it and let other people know you’re busy working on your car. In order to be sure the car does not roll over you while changing the tire apply the parking brake, usually located in between the driver and front passenger seats. In order to let others know you are busy fixing your tire turn on your hazard lights by pressing the red triangular hazard button (Δ, sort of looks like this except it is red.)

step TRES: Now we are getting into the duurty details! Take out your spare tire and jack. Place the tire jack under the *metal portion of the frame of your car in *front of the tire you wish to change. If your car has molded plastic on the bottom you can crack it by misplacing the tire jack, so use the force or your car’s owner’s manual.

step VIER: After getting the tire jack in place we are going to pump the jack until it *supports the car. Make sure it does not lift the car but supports it and also that the jack is completely vertical.

step SIX (The French six, not the English one): Now we are going to take off the hubcap of your flat tire in order to remove it. First you will need to turn the take the hubcap off. Next turn the nuts counter clockwise in order to loosen them from the tire and eventually remove them completely after they are all loose (The tire needs to be off the ground, f.y.i.). Oh and make sure you use a wrench to loosen the nuts, your hands probably won’t work. Your car should have a wrench stored somewhere check your owner’s manual or just keep a cross wrench handy in your glove compartment.

step SETE: Remove the tire. This is the easy part. For added protection against your car place the old tire directly under the frame next to the jack in case something goes horribly wrong and the jack pops out of place.

step HACHI (eight in Japanese): Now you can firmly place the new tire onto the axle by aligning the wheel bolts with the holes in the rim. After the tire is in place replace the lug nuts you removed earlier by using more of your muscle…and the wrench.

step NI: Lower the car back to the ground but not all the way. This is because you need to continue tightening the lug nuts the tightest you possibly can.

step TIEN: Finally we are almost done! I feel more accomplished already. Now you will lower the tire jack all the way and take it out from under your car. Then triple check your nuts (lug nuts that is!) and make sure they are securely fastened.Lastly rpelace the hubcap firmly onto your wheel.

FINAL step: Well I hope you have enjoyed this interesting take on a typical step by step guide on how to change a tire. To wrap up this tutorial, make sure you get rid of your old tire by throwing it away *properly (i.e. give it to a recycling center) or get it repaired by a mechanic for around 10 dollars (USD).

EZPC Recycling, Inc.
CEO, Miguel Bautista
Bring in all your flat tires. 🙂